I’ve chosen the sin of Lust, defined as strong sexual desire, because I think there are many ways to interpret it artistically.
The look will take inspiration from bondage wear, which I will look into the history of and how it’s been used in high fashion.
I’ll also be researching what it means for something to be avant-garde, as well as makeup for both runway fashion and editorial and case studies from both parts of the industries.
Fashion and Editorial Research
What is makeup for fashion?
Makeup for fashion shows is extremely varied. Some shows focus on high impact, dramatic makeup with lots of glitter, bold eyes and lips, whereas others are much more minimalistic, focusing on perfect skin and a natural look. The look will depend entirely on the clothing and the designer’s vision. The colour scheme and style of the outfits should work together with the makeup to create a cohesive look.
Because the models will be seen in person by spectators and all over the world due to photographers, hair and makeup need to be absolutely perfect. Even if the show calls for a messier look, every aspect should be intentional.
https://www.onlinemakeupacademy.com/makeup-academy-blog/how-a-makeup-artist-works-at-fashion-shows
What is makeup for editorial?
Editorial makeup means anything for publication. This includes magazines, websites, social media and newspapers. Like makeup for runway, editorial makeup needs to be cohesive with the outfit, but unlike runway makeup where the focus is the clothes, there is more focus on the makeup and model instead. Editorial makeup should tell a story to the viewer.
https://www.vlccinstitute.com/blogs/fashion-editorial-makeup
A lot of fashion makeup artists usually do some editorial work as well since fashion shows are less frequent than photoshoots. Fashion and editorial hair and makeup artists need to focus on achieving the clients vision. The main client for runway makeup is usually the designer or show producer, and editorial makeup artists are usually working for the photographer or magazine.
Jobs in Fashion
Fashion makeup artists create hair and makeup looks for fashion. They need to work with stylists, designers and photographers. Makeup for runway needs to look perfect live and on camera and compliment the clothes without taking focus away.
There are three main roles within makeup for fashion: makeup assistants; makeup artists and key artists.
Assistants help makeup artists with preparing their stations and products, getting drinks and food, as well as sometimes applying makeup with guidance. This is a job for those new to the industry.
Makeup artists apply the hair and makeup designed by the key artist. Most shows require them to replicate the key artist’s demo exactly.
Key artists in fashion work with the designer and stylists to create the look needed for the upcoming show and gets together a team of makeup artists. They supervise the team on the day and sign off on all looks before they leave for the show.
Workbred.co.uk, 2024, workbred.co.uk/career/makeup-artist-assistant.
Academy, Online Makeup. “How a Makeup Artist Works at Fashion Shows.” Online Makeup Courses | Certified Makeup Artist Classes, www.onlinemakeupacademy.com/makeup-academy-blog/how-a-makeup-artist-works-at-fashion-shows.
Jobs in editorial
Editorial makeup artists create makeup looks and style hair for publishing.. This includes fashion photoshoots for magazines, advertisements, and music videos (music videos would also require skills used in makeup for film and TV). Editorial hair and makeup artists collaborate closely with stylists, creative directors and photographers.
There are different specialisms in the editorial makeup industry. Beauty editorial artists who’s work mainly features traditional beauty and skincare products. They mainly work for adverts and magazines. Avant-garde editorial artists specialize in bold, creative looks that push boundaries. Music and entertainment editorial makeup artists often work on album covers and music videos.
“What Does an Editorial Makeup Artist Do? – CareerExplorer.” Www.careerexplorer.com, www.careerexplorer.com/careers/editorial-makeup-artist/.
Case studies of hair and makeup artists for fashion and editorial
Runway Fashion- Isamaya Ffrench
Isamaya Ffrench is a British makeup artist and beauty brand owner. She grew up in Cambridge and studied 3D design at Chelsea College of Arts then Industrial design at Central Saint Martens, which she dropped out of. She worked as a face painter for children’s parties and a body painter, where she would quickly go on to make connections with photographers and worked on commercial campaigns and photoshoots.
Ffrench has gone on to work with well known magazines like Vogue and W Magazine, as well as many fashion weeks and celebrity clients including Kim Kardashian. She was Dazed Beauty’s first Creative director in 2018 and in 2019 was Christian Loubiton’s global makeup ambassador.
Ffrench released her luxury beauty brand ISAMAYA in June 2022, with the first collection ‘Industrial’. Th brand focuses on innovation and self expression. A lot of the products have active ingredients to help the skin. The brand has been successful, even launching in Sephora stores across the world.
“Isamaya Ffrench | BoF 500 | the People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry.” The Business of Fashion, 12 Feb. 2025, www.businessoffashion.com/people/isamaya-ffrench. Accessed 27 May 2025.
Editorial- Sandy Nicha
Nichakamol Everett, more commonly known as Sandy Nicha, is an editorial makeup artist based in New York City. She moved to New York from Thailand at a young age, where she was inspired by the creative scene in the city. She’s worked for a variety of magazine clients, including many editions of Vogue and Elle around the world, L’Officiel, Ladygunn and Numero Netherlands. She’s also worked for advertising campaigns for fashion brand Prabal Gurung, jewellery brand Adore Adorn and R.E.M Beauty. Sandy Nicha consistently pushes for inclusivity in the beauty industry. She also has a successful social media presence from creating content on TikTok and Instagram talking about her experience in the industry and giving advice to beginner makeup artists in the editorial industry.
References:
“Sandy Nicha – Makeup Artist.” MODELS.com, 2019, models.com/people/sandy-nicha. Accessed 20 Apr. 2025.
“ABOUT | Sandynicha.” Sandynicha, 2024, www.sandynicha.com/about. Accessed 20 Apr. 2025.
“MAKEUP | Sandynicha.” Sandynicha, 2024, www.sandynicha.com/portfolio. Accessed 20 Apr. 2025.
What is Avant Garde and how does it relate to makeup, hair and fashion?
Avant Garde refers to experimental methods or ideas in culture, such as art, fashion and music.
Avant garde makeup and hair is usually used in fashion and includes creative use of colour, shape and texture that pushes boundaries. Avant garde makeup usually goes against current trends to create something new that people will talk about. An example of this would be the makeup Pat McGrath did in the 2024 Maison Margiela Spring couture runway, which people talked about and tried to recreate for months after the show. It also takes inspiration from other forms of art other than makeup. Using the Margiela show as an example again, there are references to Victorian porcelain dolls.
In fashion and clothing, avant garde pieces break boundaries both technically and conceptually. Examples of Avant Designers are Richard Quinn and Iris Van Herpen, who are both known for using experimental silhouettes in very different ways.
I think that despite the makeup for my look being more simple, it still counts as avant-garde because of the concept.
Mower, S. (2024). Maison Margiela Spring 2024 Couture Collection. [online] Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-couture/maison-martin-margiela#gallery-collection [Accessed 7 May 2025].
Lust in fashion
Lust has been used in fashion for a long time, with lots of designers using sexual motifs, especially with lingerie.
https://www.lofficielmalaysia.com/fashion/7-fashionably-deadly-sins-found-on-runways-fall-2022
Bondage Research
Bondage is defined by google as ‘sexual practice that involves the tying up or restraining of one partner.’
Bondage and BDSM have influenced fashion for decades due to their bold natures. Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLarne were two of the first to bring bondage to high fashion, with her 1974 SEX boutique which was a hub for punk fashion, as well as selling to local prostitutes. 1976 was the year their ‘Seditionaries’ collection launched. The collection featured heavy sexual themes that wouldn’t haave been worn on clothes before.
Later, in the 900s and early 2000s, other designers Jean Paul Gaultier and Helmut Lang would take inspiration from fetish wear, featuring straps and militaristic theming.
In more recent fashion, fetish wear has become a symbol of strength. Modern BDSM and bondage inspired fashion utilizes leather harnesses, hardware, and sharp lines.
Through my research, I’ve noticed a pattern of bondage fashion becoming more prevalent in times of social instability. From Vivienne Westwood’s SEX boutique in the 70s when unemployment was high, the 2000s during the stock market crash and in recent years with the covid pandemic and political changes across the world. I think this is because expressing sexuality is a form of push back during oppressive times.
Archive, Truss. “Why Is Fashion so Infatuated with Bondage?” Trussarchive.com, 2023, www.trussarchive.com/editorials/why-is-fashion-so-infatuated-with-bondage. Accessed 27 May 2025.
SEO, VIKTOR. “The Rise of BDSM-Inspired Fashion in Contemporary Trends.” ANOESES, 9 Jan. 2024, anoeses.com/en-gb/blogs/blog/bdsm-inspired-fashion?srsltid=AfmBOooHryACMp96Chc53SNva54iKs8EhCWCqAEbl57jG7lOKqlS3E1O. Accessed 27 May 2025.