I’m going to research into how the skin works, skin types and different skin conditions so that I can keep my client’s skin healthy since that’s what the makeup is going onto and if there are problems with their skin, I can give them the right advice to treat it. I’ll also research contraindications so that if I have a model or client with a condition that I can’t work on, I’ll be able to recognise it and send them home.
Science of Skin
The skin is the largest organ in the body. It protects against viruses and bacteria, as well as regulating temperature and the nerves allow for touch.
The skin is part of the body’s integumentary system, meaning the body’s outer covering. The other parts of the integumentary system are hair, nails, oil and sweat glands.
The skin has 3 layers: the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis.
Epidermis
The epidermis is the outer layer of skin. It’s made of keratin and other proteins that join together to form the layer.
The epidermis acts as a barrier against bacteria and germs that can lead to infections, as well as the weather and natural elements. It also protects by fighting off infections with langerhans cells contained in the epidermis which are part of the immune system.
The epidermis additionally produces new skin cells, replacing around 40,000 old skin cells each day that the body sheds.
Melanin is found in the epidermis which gives skin its colour. People with more melanin have darker skin and tan easier. Melanin also gives colour to hair and eyes as well as skin.
Dermis
The dermis is the middle layer of skin and is also the thickest layer.
The dermis contains collagen and elastin. Collagen makes skin cells stronger and elastin makes skin flexible and allows skin to regain its original shape after being stretched. Hair follicles also grow from the roots in the dermis. Sweat is released through pores in the dermis to regulate body temperature. The dermis supplies blood to the epidermis through blood vessels to keep the skin healthy and oil glands keep the skin soft and prevents it from absorbing too much water.
Hypodermis
The hypodermis is the bottom layer of skin and is made of fat.
The hypodermis prevents the body from overheating or getting too cold. It protects bones and muscle when you’re injured. The hypodermis contains tissue that connects to muscles and bones. Blood vessels in the hypodermis are bigger than blood vessels in the dermis and they connect they hypodermis to the whole body.
Sebaceous glands
Sebaceous glands produce sebum.
Sebaceous glands are mainly attached to hair follicles but some work with sweat glands and attach to the epidermis. No matter where they’re found, they have the same function of producing sebum.
Sebum is an oily substance made of lipids including: wax; fatty acids; glycerides; cholesterol and squalene. Sebum is a coating protects the skin from friction, brittle hair and moisture loss in hair and infections. Sebum production is slow during childhood and is excessive during puberty. Sebum production becomes normal during adulthood and slow down around age 70.
references:
layers of skin: https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/body/10978-skin
sebaceous glands: https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/body/24538-sebaceous-glands
Skin Types
Normal Skin
Normal skin isn’t particularly dry or oily.
Appears soft and smooth.
Doesn’t need special care, just needs a skincare routine of cleanser, toner, moisturiser and sunscreen.
Dry Skin
Dry skin is usually caused by external factors and is often temporary but can sometimes be more long lasting. Dry skin and crack and make skin vulnerable to infection and bacteria and can also lead to eczema.
Dry skin is often tight and rough. Other symptoms include redness, dull appearance, cracking and itching. Cracking is usually small but can sometimes be deep and cause bleeding.
Treatments for dry skin:
People with dry skin should wash and moisturise their face more often and use alcohol free face washes. Taking shorter baths or showers with warm water instead of hot water because it strips skin of its natural oils. Washing clothes that are perfume or dye free can also help relieve dry skin.
Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamides, glycerin, dimethicone, shea butter, urea, petrolatum and alpha-hydroxy acid are ingredients found in skincare products that help with dry skin.
Oil or water based foundations and primers are best for dry skin as they have more hydrating formulas. Cream foundations work on all skin types but are particularly good for dry skin.
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/dry-skin/diagnosis-treatment/drc-20353891
https://www.cerave.com/skin-smarts/skincare-tips-advice/best-skincare-ingredients-for-dry-skin
Oily Skin
Oily skin is caused by excessive fat production in the sebaceous glands, making the skin look porous and greasy. Oily skin is often thicker and ages slower.
Treatments for oily skin:
Using oil free or noncomedogenic skincare or makeup products will help with oily skin and won’t lead to acne because they don’t clog pores.
Avoid scrubbing and use oil/alcohol free cleansers to prevent skin from being irritated.
Oil free sunscreens and sunscreens that contain zinc oxide and titanium oxide will prevent acne breakouts
Lactic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid are ingredients found in skincare that benefit oily skin.
Matte, water based or silicone based makeup will help reduce shine on the face.
https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/oily-skin
Combination Skin
Combination skin is usually oily around the T-zone but dry in the rest of the face. Finding skincare for combination skin can be more difficult.
Treatments for combination skin:
Layered products can help control oily skin. Smoothing serums should be applied over the whole face and serums or moisturisers with hyaluronic acids or other hydrating ingredients should be used for the dry areas.
Silicone based primers or foundations are best for combination skin.
https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/skin-care-routine-for-combination-skin
https://www.skinceuticals.co.uk/en_GB/combination-skin.html
Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin is more fragile, and can often feel similar to dry skin. It’s easier for bacteria and irritants to enter sensitive skin due to the lack of a skin barrier, which increases the risk of getting infections and allergic reactions.
Treatments for sensitive skin:
People with sensitive skin should avoid products with perfumes as well as scented detergents. Using body washes, moisturisers and sunscreens designed for sensitive will feel lighter on the skin and have simpler formulas to prevent allergic reactions.
Water based foundations are best for sensitive skin.
Skin Conditions
Hypopigmentation
Hypopigmentation is when skin cells produce low amounts of melanin, causing patches of skin to appear lighter than the rest of the person’s skin.
Hypopigmentation can be genetic or caused by external factors.
Causes of hypopigmentation:
Albinism- a genetic mutation that causes skin to look white/ extremely pale. Hair and eyes can also be very pale. Because melanin helps form the retina, sight problems are common for people with albinism.
Vitiligo- patches of lighter skin, contrasting the main skin colour on any parts of the body. Vitiligo can change and increase over time. The exact cause is unknown. Can also affect hair.
Pityriasis alba- no exact cause, but often linked to eczema. Appears as white spots from previous red or scaly patches of skin. Pityriasis alba can heal over time so treatments aren’t usually required, but sometimes a topical steroid cream or moisturising cream is prescribed.
Tinea Versicolour- comes from a fungal infection due to overactive yeast on the skin. Appears as white, scaly spots usually around the back of the neck and shoulders. Isn’t contagious but can make the person self conscious. Treatments include antifungal creams, shampoos or lotions. Often recurs on people with oily skin or people who sweat a lot. Common in areas with high humidity.
Lichen Sclerosus- causes white spots that can enlarge, bleed and scar. Mainly occurs around genitals and anal areas, as well as breasts and upper body. Most common in women experiencing menopause.
https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/albinism
https://www.healthline.com/health/skin-disorders/hypopigmentation
https://www.healthline.com/health/pityriasis-alba#treatments
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/tinea-versicolor/symptoms-causes/syc-20378385
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation appears as darker patches than the surrounding skin. It’s caused by excess melanin being produced in skin cells.
Types of hyperpigmentation:
Freckles- small tan spots. Often caused by sun exposure in childhood. They can fade during winter and become more numerous and darker with more exposure to the sun.
Age spots- sometimes called liver spots despite having nothing to do with the liver. Age spots are spots of darker skin, usually much bigger than freckles, on areas usually exposed to the sun more like the face, hands, forearms and chest. Usually develop in older age due to prolonged sun exposure or sunburns. Can be prevented by using sunscreen.
Melasma- usually seen in women in their 20s or 30s. Causes dark spots on random parts of the face. Can be caused by sun exposure and hormonal changes.
Maturational hyperpigmentation- gradual darkening of the skin, usually on the sides of the face due to sun exposure or metabolic disease. Mainly affects people with darker skin.
Periorbital hyperpigmentation- darker skin round the eyes. Also referred to as dark circles.
Acanthosis nigricans- a skin condition often seen in people with type 2 diabetes. Causes the skin to be darker in places that rub together more.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation- after inflammation or injury, skin can appear darker where the wound previously was after it heals.
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/323808
Rosacea
Rosacea is a long term skin condition that causes redness, usually on the face, but can affect other parts of the body. Rosacea also usually causes a burning or stinging sensation. It’s harder to see on people with darker skin. The causes of rosacea are currently unknown and there isn’t a cure. Avoiding triggers such as alcohol can cause flare-ups. Antibiotics and creams or gels are usually prescribed to help control rosacea.
https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/rosacea
Eczema
Eczema is a common type of dermatitis that causes skin to become dry, flaky, itchy and bumpy. Eczema can appear on the skin. It weakens the skin barrier, causing the body to be less protected against external elements. There are different types of eczema, and people can have more than 1 type of eczema at a time. It can affect anyone at any age. Most people who have eczema outgrow it. In lighter skin, eczema rashes are usually red, purple or pink in colour. In darker skin they’re usually brown, purple or grey.
Most types of eczema usually hurt, but itching the rashes can cause pain or discomfort. Some types of eczema can hurt, such as contact dermatitis.
There are multiple causes of eczema, which are:
Immune system- eczema causes the immune system to overreact to small irritants in the environment, treating them like foreign invaders like pathogens. This triggers the body to attack, causing inflammation which leads to symptoms of eczema.
Genes- if there’s a history of eczema in your family, you’re also more likely to get it. If there’s also history of asthma, allergies or hay eczema is more likely. Eczema can also be caused by a genetic mutation which affects the skin barrier.
Environment- Eczema can be triggered by external things like soaps, fabrics, smoke, some skin care products and pollutants in the air. Low or high humidity can also make the skin even itchier
Emotions- high stress levels, anxiety, or periods of depression can lead to flare-ups.
Identifying triggers within the environment and removing them if possible will lower the chance of more flare-ups in the future.
Eczema is not contagious and isn’t a contraindication, but gentle, fragrance free products should be used to avoid flare ups. If the eczema is severe and currently flaring up, it shouldn’t be worked on.
https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/9998-eczema
https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/eczema/cosmetics-eczema-makeup
Herpes
Herpes is a skin infection that causes blisters or ulcers, usually around the mouth. It’s a virus, so it can be spread between people, mainly through skin contact. Common symptoms of herpes are fevers, sore throat, swollen lymph nodes, headaches and a sore throat.
Herpes is a contraindication. If a client has herpes, they should see a doctor immediately.
There are 2 types of herpes, HSV-1 and HSV-2.
HSV-1 is often spread by oral (mouth contact) and causes infections around the mouth. Can also cause genital herpes.
HSV-2 is spread by sexual contact and causes genital herpes. HSV- 2 increases the risk of HIV.
Herpes can’t be cured, but it heals over time. There are different treatments that can help with the healing process.
To treat oral herpes, the area around the mouth should be kept dry and clean. Over the counter anaesthetic or anti inflammatory treatments can help. Antiviral creams and oral medications also help.
For genital herpes, antiviral medications and creams are used to help with the blisters.
https://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/health/conditions-and-diseases/herpes-hsv1-and-hsv2/oral-herpes
Psoriasis
Psoriasis is a skin condition that causes aches of silvery, flaky skin. It normally appears as small patches on your elbows, knees, lower back, and scalp but can appear anywhere on your body.
The exact cause is unknown, but it’s thought to be related to the immune system where cells with the purpose of fighting infection mistakenly attack regular skin cells, leading to skin cells being produced faster and more frequently.
Psoriasis can be triggered by the environment or genetics. Some triggers are weather, alcohol, infections, injuries that affect the skin, certain medications (lithium, antimalaria treatments, high blood pressure treatments), etc.
It’s chronic, so there’s no cure. It’s usually treated with topical creams/ointments or vitamin D analogues for more mild cases.
For severe cases, phototherapy can be used, which means that UV light is used against the skin, but this can lead to other problems related to UV exposure such as skin cancer.
If you smoke or have a history of psoriasis in your family, you’re more likely to have it.
Oral or injected medicines are sometimes used if the treatments previously mentioned aren’t effective.
It’s not contagious.
https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/psoriasis
Dermatitis
Dermatitis is an umbrella term for any inflammatory skin condition, such as eczema.
Rash
Skin rashes are red, bumpy, inflamed and often itchy patches of skin. They can be caused by allergic reactions, skin conditions such as dermatitis, bacteria, viruses.
Most people will have a rash at least once in their life, and anyone can have one at any time.
Rashes are often caused by other conditions like cradle cap, eczema, or hives among others.
If a rash is caused by allergens, allergy medications can be used to make the rash less itchy.
Anti-inflammatory creams will help with inflammation.
Immunosuppressants will stop the immune system from attacking the area if the rash is caused by eczema or other conditions triggered by the immune system.
Steroids can help with inflammation if the rash is severe.
https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/17413-rashes-red-skin
Ringworm
Ringworm is a fungal infection. The main system is a rash in a ring shape with a darker colour, usually red, on the outside. Other symptoms are blisters; itchiness; scaly patches of skin; raised patches of skin; hair loss; fever.
It’s contagious and can be passed through objects, animals, or objects with the fungus on them. It can also be passed through soil. It’s most commonly passed through animals so if you have it, you should take your pets to the vet and have them treated.
Since ringworm is a fungal infection, antifungal medications, ointments or creams are usually prescribed.
Ringworm is a contraindication so makeup shouldn’t be applied on someone with ringworm and they should go to a doctor immediately.
https://www.healthline.com/health/ringworm
Moles
Moles are small, dark brown spots. They are a form of skin growth. They’re usually harmless but should be kept an eye on because some moles can be cancerous. They can grow or fade over time. They’re not infectious
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/moles/symptoms-causes/syc-20375200
Scabies
Scabies is a parasitic infection caused by tiny mites called Sarcoptes scabiei var hominis burrowing under the skin and laying eggs. Once hatched, the larvae go up to the surface of the skin and grow and spread to other parts of the skin or other people. The body reacts to the eggs and waste which leads to itching.
The symptoms are itching, raised rashes or spots. The spots can be harder to see on darker skin but can still be felt.
The symptoms of crusted scabies, which can be contracted by people with weakened immune systems are crusty and flaky rashes on the person’s hands, feet, elbows or knees.
The main way scabies is spread is through skin to skin contact, sharing clothes or bedding.
Scabies is highly contagious and is a contraindication. Working on a client with scabies will lead to the parasites being spread to other people. If a client or model shows symptoms of scabies, they should see a doctor and be treated.
If someone contracts scabies, they should wash all clothes or bedding at a high heat to kill the parasites, and if the clothes can’t be washed they should be put in an air tight bag until the mites die, which is usually 3 days. Avoid physical contact until you’ve been fully treated.
Scabies should be treated with a cream all over the body. Anyone else in the person’s household or anyone they’ve had sex with in the last 8 weeks should also be treated.
Pharmacy treatments shouldn’t be used on anyone under 2 years old and they should see a GP.
Scabies can make psoriasis or eczema worse.
https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/scabies
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/scabies/symptoms-causes/syc-20377378
https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/scabies
Shingles
Shingles is a viral infection caused by the varicella-zoster virus, which also causes chicken pox.
Symptoms are pain which can lead to a rash a few days later, blisters that crust after breaking, itching, light sensitivity, headache, fever, fatigue, and the area affected can feel sensitive to touch. The rash usually appears as a line of blisters on the skin, commonly on the torso but can sometimes appear around the eye.
If you’ve had chicken pox at some point in your life, the virus stays in the body and can come back as shingles later in life.
Shingles can be passed to anyone who’s not immune to chicken pox through physical contact or through the air. The person is contagious until the blisters scab over.
Shingles can be prevented by the shingles vaccine, which is available for anyone aged 65+ from the NHS. If you have the vaccine but still get shingles, the vaccine will make it less painful.
Shingles can be treated or made less painful at home by taking paracetamol for the pain, keeping the rash clean to avoid complications, wear loose clothes so that the rash isn’t touched which could lead to more pain. Keeping cool will also help if the person has a fever so a cold compress could work.
Prescribed antiviral medication will treat the virus.
Shingles is a contraindication due to it being easy to spread.
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/shingles/symptoms-causes/syc-20353054
https://www.nhs.uk/vaccinations/shingles-vaccine
Warts
Warts are small bumps on the skin. They can be itchy and painful. The person might also be embarrassed to have them.
They usually leave on their own, but sometimes come back regularly, in which case the person should see a GP.
They’re often the same colour as the skin, but sometimes appear darker on black or brown skin.
They can be treated with creams, sprays, or plasters but these methods aren’t suitable for the face.
https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/warts-and-verrucas
Contraindications
A contraindication in makeup is something that prevents the makeup artist from working on someone’s skin because it can cause harm and risk giving the client an infection or spreading an infection.
Skin analysis
The best way to analyse a client’s skin is to use a blotting paper or tissue if there are no blotting papers available.
Press the blotting paper against parts of the face that tend to sweat more and the cheeks.
If little to no oil is picked up from all over the face, that’s a sign of dry skin.
If lots of oil is picked up across the face and the paper appears transparent, that’s a sign of oily skin.
If the paper only picks up oil on the t-zone but none on the cheeks, the person has combination skin.
If minimal oil but not too little is picked up from the whole face, the person has normal skin.
https://www.cerave.com/skin-smarts/skincare-tips-advice/what-skin-type-do-i-have